Copyright © 2012 Native Pony & Cob Saddles
Wider breeds such as Dartmoor ponies and draught horses have become progressively more fashionable to ride due to their attractive more gentle disposition coupled with them being more straight forward to maintain. However, many saddleries do not carry the design of saddles that cater for these breeds as they have not yet caught up with this fashion in riding practice, this is because previously thoroughbred type horses were far more popular and this development in riding habits is relatively new. Sadly this has led to some general issues with saddle fitting the wider horse and pony. The following gives guidance on frequently asked queries regarding saddle fitting the wider horse and pony:
1. Why does my saddle move forwards?
A saddle should not run forwards. If you have a cob or native breed such as a Highland pony it is likely to have very low withers and high sprung ribs combined with forward girth groove. It is not just native breeds that can have this shape; it can also be found in draught horses and some Warmblood horses. When this horse or pony shape is coupled with a saddle that has a curve in the panel and standard girthing the outcome is that the saddle pulls straight over the horse’s withers when it moves. To remedy this problem you need a wide horse or pony saddle with a low pommel, flatter tree, close contact flocking and a flatter panel along with a point strap (so that when the saddle is girthed up the girth sits on the upright rather than on the diagonal), this should result in a stable saddle when the horse moves.
2. Why are saddles sometimes not wide enough for New Forest ponies?
This is because even some of the extra wide saddles have a very triangular headed tree in them which is not a good fit for these breeds (and those in question 1); these breeds work better with a rounder head to the top of the tree as they have rounder (or flatter withers) in comparison to other types of horses.
3. I have a Dartmoor pony, why do a lot of saddles bounce at the back despite the fact that they look the right width at the front?
sometimes this is because the design of tree and panel in the saddle is too curved for the horse’s back and it results in lack of stability. If this is the case it can also result in bruising to the horse’s back when the saddle moves, in time if the problem is allowed to continue it could also result in muscle wastage in the horse or pony’s back.
4. How can I work out the shape of my horse or pony?
There are a number of ways to work out the contour of your horse or pony, one way is to use a ‘flexible curve’ product that makes it possible to mould the horse or pony’s structure as you measure it. These should be easy to find and should be available from a good stationers or art shop. Before you check your horse’s shape make sure it is standing level and square on flat ground. You will then need to locate the horse or pony’s scapula (shoulder blade). This is because the flexible curve needs to be positioned on your horse or pony’s withers about 1″ behind the shoulder blade. The idea is you need to obtain the shape of where the saddle tree would be seated on your horse or pony’s back. Gently mould the flexible curve as close as possible to the shape of your horse or pony’s withers without applying too much pressure. The flexible curve requires gentle moulding as if you press too hard into the horse or pony’s muscle it will result in an inaccurate measurement. Once you have moulded the flexi curve you can use it to create a template by putting the curve horizontally on a piece of paper and tracing around the inside of the curve.
Andrea Hicks is a saddle fitter and saddle designer, she developed ‘The Native Pony Saddle Company’ range that are specialist saddles for wider horses and ponies. She has been selling and designing saddles for over 20 years. Her saddles also include ‘Phoenix Saddles’ for native ponies, Warmbloods, Arabs, Icelandics and Iberian horses.
http://www.nativeponysaddles.com/
http://www.phoenixsaddles.com/